No matter how hard we try we never seen to make it out and about before 11am.. LAB00 is an awesome place to stay, so we don’t really mind.
On a continent where breakfast isn’t really a highlighted meal, there is a place high up in the hills of Cerro Alegre in Valpo, where they indeed do know how to make a proper breakfast. None of that bread and manjar/dulce de leite or jam nonsense, but beautiful eggs, fried or scrambled or poached or boiled, crispy bacon, buttered up garlic mushrooms, fresh fluffy toast and….jam.
El Desayunor (literally translated as “The Breakfaster”) is a small eatery on a corner on top of a hill in a picture perfect neighbourhood overlooking the Port. We climb hundreds of stairs and walk the steep paths up the hills to finally make it, hungry enough to eat a whole quiche by myself.
They serve breakfast all day long and I can recommend the Scrambled eggs mixed with crispy bacon and tomato, freshly squeezed plumb juice and their variety of quiches with salad. We even have dessert of flan after breakfast and their coffee is top notch! Definitely worth a visit.
After our breakfast-for-lunch we navigate our way through the hills and winding roads. The art on the streets of Valpo is something truly amazing. Not graffiti or vandalism or mere decoration, but colourful pieces of every artist’s soul that make up this city’s personality. Murals have been big all over the cities of South America so far, but here in Valpo the surfaces, EVERY surface, is a canvas and everybody knows it. There is so much to see that my eyes don’t know where to linger longest.
We trek up the hills on our way to Pablo Neruda’s house, admiring the art along the way, then suddenly the most magnificent view surprises us! The Pacific Ocean kisses the land and the colourful city hills stretch out before us. I can see all the way to Viña del Mar in the North.
Pablo Neruda is Chile’s most famous poet-turned-senator. One of his homes in the Cerro Bella Vista has been converted to a museum honouring the great Chilean. La Sebastiana is worth a visit, even if only to walk around the gardens and the gift shop. Entry is quite overpriced at 4000 Chilean pesos per person, so we opted to enjoy the views from the outside. From atop this hill Pablo had an uninterrupted view of the ocean and the rolling hills stacked with colourful homes. It is an inspiring sight! The man was very influential in the political and art worlds of Chile.
After our brief visit we stroll down the hill where the Museo Cielo Abierto (Open Air Museum) treats us to some visual magic. Here the streets are filled with recognised artists’ works and it is a must to experience when in Valporaìso.
The artistic energy of this town makes my soul smile with belonging. This is a place where I would have thrived as a 21 year old, and I hope to return one day to let my old creative soul create.
Back downtown we are hungry again after all that walking, and Anticuchos are on our menu. We walk to our now familiar little park and find a seller almost immediately. Yum, fiery goodness! We have 2 each and sit in the Plaza watching life in Valpo happen.
Another successful day! We relax at LAB00 for the evening, and drift off to satisfying sleep*